Blow a steady, strong stream of air through your embouchure into one of the pan flute's tubes. If you ask me where is a note on a piano I can find it almost instantly, but if you ask me the same thing on this arrangement I will need at least two seconds, a really long time if you are playing something. Take the 8-tubes and the 2-tubes pan flutes and lye the latter on the first (see first image), lowering the accidentals by 1-2 cm. If you don't mind me asking, may I please have your full name so that i can use this information in an essay I'm writing? The inner diameter should be not too big nor too small: a 1-1.5 cm of inner diameter is fine. Question amzn_assoc_linkid = "f509cefcf70eb555d1cc88fa3970b334"; Shakuhachi: The East Wind | In Romanian Pan Flute makers parlance, the whole process of beveling the upper rims of the pipes is often referred to as putting a buza or mouth on the pipes. The whole purpose of beveling the upper rims of the pipes is to give the pipes a mouth that interfaces more comfortably and intimately with the mouth and lips of the player. The benefits of beveling the pipe rims are: a more polished, refined sound and tone; a better and more sensitive playing response; and an easier and clearer playing of the chromatic notes, which are produced by lipping down on the pipes. Beveling also smoothes things out; just try moving your lips back and forth over the rough, sharp rims of the un-beveled pipes! Beveling the upper rims of the pipes is a highly individual matter, and each player has his or her own preference; therefore, pipe beveling styles can vary widely between different players. Because beveling the pipe rims is putting a mouth on the pipes to fit the players own mouth or embouchure, the basic guideline or recommendation here is that beginning players bevel the top rims of the pipes only very lightly; then, once their embouchure is stronger and more firmly set, they can progress to a deeper or more extensive beveling of the pipe rims, as their natural inclinations lead them. . When used, it empowers nearby players and the user with the Resource Consumption Chance II empowerment . First I worked out the 4 * 466.2, getting 1864.8 then did 13830 / 1864.8, getting 7.416 inches, which is close to the 7.23 inches in your tube length calculator but not close enough. Can you build a pan flute with other materials, making it easier to use or hold? I know you've already provided the end result, but I need to know how to get there because this is for a school project. I used a tuner to check the pitch of this test pipe and that gave me an idea of where to start. Measure Your Pipes Use the same dimensions for the straw pan tubes. So I would had to bend it very much to do it. All we need to do is take the frequency of the pipe, double it two times and calculate the value of L. For example, the D4 has a frequency of 293.7 Hz, so the D6 has a frequency of 1174.7 Hz. Use the tape to hold the straws together. Step Twelve: Oiling and Finishing the Pipes By bending the pipes, you are exploiting the slightly elastic nature of the material (be careful not to stretch too much and cause the resultant tension to shatter a brittle pipe! Do the same on the top. Well, for this step Now we have a set of 13 tubes. The table of pipe lengths and bore diameters, as shown on the Pipe Sizes and Dimensions page, will be your primary guide in fine cutting the pipes down to their proper length. Its always a good idea to make your cut a little outside the line, just to be on the side of safety. Still, the pipe lengths shown in the table will give a sufficient margin to allow for the shaping and sculpting of the bottoms of the pipes to produce an aesthetically pleasing curve after the pipes have been assembled, without any fear of coming up short length-wise., Step Six: Pipe Wall Thinning and Bore Work Knot the end when you are done. #2 Use the wavelength and diameter and solve for the length of each straw wind column ( L ). Please check this carefully and don't wear your pipes since although this is a cool representation of wave physics, I don't want you ruining your panflute :). Try to play some notes. Anybody could help? Obviously open ends will go on the same plane. A "virtual" pan flute made using those length and laying all tubes on a table is shown in the first pic. 5. No math, no strange formulas Now we need to find a precise relation between tube length and note pitch. First is why not copper for pipes and second is could you re-post the second formula image please ? So the hole center must be 7.06 cm from the open end. Share it with us! Do you want some more directions? Reply This time, since the whistle was less than 40 cm long and the sum of lengths now is more than 295 cm, I've decided not to sand it. After the pipes have been oiled, and the excess oil has been thoroughly removed, the next step is to finish or paint the pipes. The purpose of painting or finishing the pipes is mainly aesthetic in nature, but it can have acoustical benefits as well. A wide variety of different finishes may be used, such as acrylic lacquer, oil finishes, polyurethane, or various kinds of varnishes, including acoustical violin varnish. I highly recommend the latter, as it not only beautifies and preserves the bamboo, but also improves the overall sound and acoustics of the pipes. Or, you may simply wax or oil the outsides of the pipes, as you have done with their interiors, or apply no paint or finish at all, preferring to go natural. A glossy finish is most recommended for the bottom frame or boot of the Pan Flute, even if the pipes themselves are left in an unfinished, natural state; one of the things I have done with the frame or boot has been to apply a very thin layer of clear epoxy glue to it, using a very thin piece of plywood as a kind of palette knife applicator for doing this. The frame or boot may also be stained to get it to be the right color, and even brown or black shoe polish can be used for this purpose. If you have good basic woodworking and craftsmanship skills, you will be able to come up with a good creative and aesthetically pleasing solution. Once done the first row, we need the accidentals row. Place the straws together from longest to shortest. Simple: creating an hole in the tubes. Then repeat with F#/Gb, G#/Ab and A#/Bb tubes. Theoretic lessons are gone, now let's do something more practical! However, "my" frequencies are 261.6, 277.2, 293.7, 311.1, 329.6, 349.2, 370, 392, 415.3, 440, 466.2, 493.9, 523.3 rounded to first decimal digit, measured in hertz. Write the numbers of each note onto the printable recording sheet. A common comment that I hear from people when they find out that I make my own Pan Flutes is that it must be very hard to cut the pipe to precisely the right length to produce the desired note or pitch. Actually, the lengths of the pipes constitute the least exacting aspect of Pan Flute making. Just as long as the pipes are longer than the minimum length that they need to be for producing their desired pitch, plus a comfortable tuning margin, they are then tuned up to pitch by the insertion of tuning material, which is packed down into the bottoms of the pipes. The pipes of the upper octave of an Alto Pan Flute are more than halfway full of tuning material; if they were the exact length that they needed to be to produce the desired pitch, they would be too short to hold comfortably with the fingers. The traditional tuning material used in the Romanian Pan Flute is beeswax; its advantages are that it is flexible and malleable, and readily sticks to the bottoms of the pipes, sealing off the bottoms as well. Its main drawback is that it expands quite a lot in hot weather, which tends to raise the pitch of the pipes.. I'm Chelsey, a former teacher and parent living on the central coast of California. Crafting Recipe History 1.6.1.0 : Place the double-sided tape onto the other black strip of cardstock and place it on top of your straws, lining it up with the first piece of cardstock. Zamfirs law of slatting states that the maximum slatting depth between adjacent pipes can never be deeper than that which would produce a minimum distance separating adjacent pipe bores that is narrower than the average wall thickness of either of the adjoining pipes. For example, if two adjoining pipes have an average wall thickness of 3.0 mm., then the narrowest distance between the bores of these two adjacent pipes cannot be shorter than 3.0 mm. Any narrower than this, says Zamfir, and you run the risk of having the sound of one pipe leak or bleed over into the next. Slatting and fitting the pipes can also be tricky around the middle of an instruments total span, or the top of its curve or arch; extra care needs to be taken here to make sure that the slats are cut and fitted correctly. Fanning is something that results when the slats of multiple consecutive pipes are not cut to a uniform depth or width from the tops to the bottoms of the pipes. Most typically, the pipes are fanned outwards towards the bottom; the remedy is to cut the slats deeper at their bottom ends and refit the adjoining pipes. To get an estimate of the sizes I'd need, I cut a piece of pipe about 12" long, put my finger tightly over one end and blew across the edge of the open end. Do = 8.5 cm. I'm kinda strange guy. An assortment of drill bits ranging in diameter from 2mm to 1.5 cm. Now you should have three partial pan flutes: one with 8 tubes, one with 2 tubes and one with 3 tubes. Later I will explain how to dispose everything even better. This should be down with a small saw or knife. There are two basic schools of thought when it comes to how to thin down pipe walls from the outside, and from the inside, with each of them having their respective pros and cons. The way I prefer is to thin the pipe walls from the outside until they are of perfect thickness. To do this, I go, from rough thinning to fine thinning, from whittling to rasping to scraping. The best pipes are just scrape and go, in which all you need to do to thin the pipe wall down to its proper thickness is to scrape the outer skin off of it but sometimes, the walls need to be thinned down quite a bit more than that. The other school of thought is to thin down the pipe walls by reaming the inner soft, pithy layer out from the inside with various drills and reamers. The main rationale for this approach is to remove the soft, pithy inner layer of the bamboo, which is the least inherently sonorous and resilient, leaving nothing soft to dampen the pipes sound. This sounds great in theory, but in practice, it only works if you have a solid, reliable method of reaming out the inside in a straight, uniform manner, as ruts and/or ridges on the interior of a pipe bore will warp, distort or roughen the sound of a pipe. Stylistically and aesthetically, there are several possible variations in the designing of Pan Flute frames. Although Basswood is the traditional material for making Pan Flute frames, a flexible tree branch, of Willow or some other soft, pliable wood, can also be used for the front and back strips for those who want a very natural feel and look. Or, the front and back strips can be eliminated altogether, just reinforcing the instrument with successive laminations of thin Basswood, hardwood veneer or thin plywood on the instruments bottom surface. If the right pieces of bamboo or sculpted wood should be unavailable for the end pieces, then molding them out of epoxy putty and rasping or sanding them off smooth later is also a possibility. The styling variations are virtually endless, and the aesthetic possibilities of using exotic woods and other materials can also provide great artistic and creative possibilities. Just remember that structural considerations of strength and reinforcement should be satisfied before you start to consider aesthetics. Hope this helps! If the note is lower than n will be negative, if the note is higher it will be positive. The frame or the boot of the Pan Flute must be made from special materials that have both the requisite flexibility to be molded to the shape of the instruments arch or curve, as well as enough strength to provide sufficient structural reinforcement. The main material to be used is wood; traditionally, Lemn de Tei, which is Linden wood or Basswood, is the wood that is used for the frame. Fortunately, Basswood is available, in the requisite 1/16 or 1/8 inch thickness, at hobby stores that sell wood for model airplanes. I have also found that 3 to 4 laminations or layers of paper thin plywood, also used for making model airplanes, also works well, and may be structurally stronger than Basswood. Another great material to use is sheets of fiberglass glued on with epoxy, which provides an extremely strong and durable first layer of reinforcement for the instrument. The end pieces for the frame are usually made from pieces of split bamboo that are of the right size and inner diameter to fit around the ends of the bottom and top pipes. And the wood is glued onto the instrument either with masking tape if the wood is more flexible, or with clamps. Layers of paper thin model airplane plywood are fully flexible for easy bending, but Basswood strips may need some steaming or moistening with hot water to soften them up., Prior to the actual affixing of the frame to the bottom of the instrument, there are a couple of preparatory sub-steps that need to be done. The first is to sculpt the bottoms of the pipes into a smooth, aesthetically pleasing curve with a half round rasp. Because bamboo tends to splinter easily, it is recommended that the outer edges of the sloping bottom rims of the pipes first be rounded off with a rasp as a safeguard against this happening before this sculpting can begin in earnest. Secondly, if there has been marked or significant warping of the curve or arch of the pipes since their initial assembly, remedial measures can be taken to correct this, and bring the curve or arch back closer to the original ideal of the Pan Flute Mold. If the arch of the pipes has warped wide or decreased in its curvature, the pipes can be trussed with a thick nylon cord and thick strips of cardboard or folded heavy paper can be wedged into the end, around the lowest pipe, until the arch is tightened sufficiently. If the arch of the pipes has warped tight or increased in its curvature beyond the ideal, the pipes can be laid upon a table or flat surface and a stone of about 5 6 pounds (2 3 kg.) If you make a large hole (like 5 mm of diameter), the approximation will be better than a smaller hole. This is my favourite method, but this time I cannot follow this way because my printer is incapable of such dimensions. Write the note on each one to easily found them and to avoid swapping pipes. OK, then. If you hear 2 notes when you play the C, D or E tube, then lower the 2-tubes group. Did you make this project? ), I keep getting very small results, like .15 for C4, and I think i'm missing something but I can't tell what. Anyway, you can use any material you wish, the only difference will be in the timbre (the kind of sound the instrument makes). When the kids have finished making their straw pan flutes, they can use them to explore sound and make music. 13 drinking straws (You might not really need all 13 straws. SUBSCRIBE - / @ksuiteach Show more Try. How to make your own Pan Flute. This Instructable is splitted in two parts: theory and practice. ). All rights reserved. Now you should have three partial pan flutes: one with 8 tubes, one with 2 tubes and one with 3 tubes. (Weve previously made our own cardboard tube kazoos and rainsticks such a fun way to explore sound and make music!) Compare the sounds each pan flute makes. Kids always love making homemade musical instruments. Thats fine too and much easier for younger children.). Take one tube. Encourage children to measure and cut their own straws. Make a pan flute with even more straws of different lengths. Speaking of the formulas, there are a total of four symbols: the lenght of the pipe L, the speed of sound v, the frequency of the note produced f, and the distance of the note from the central A n, measured in half-tones. To conciliate this last passion with music I made a pan flute, an ancient instrument belonging to various cultures. Step 1: Making the Pipes. 1. While making the pan flutes (sometimes called panpipes), theyll have the opportunity to use both math and fine motor skills, while also building and creating. Gut and remove the innards of your pens (save the insides for other projects!). I'm here for this! By making it fractionally longer, you slightly decrease the frequency :). Take five wide straws and cut them into varying lengths. take about ten straws and cut them all at a different lengths as shown if you have 10 straws than make the cuts about 1 cm difference. If you are not interested in all the math and physics behind the project, you can jump directly to the practice section. Step 2: Tracing He's made books with seasonal themes, or vehicle themes, a math book and even one for our dogs! No. Although some precision adjustment of wall thicknesses, beyond merely skinning the outer peel or surface off of the bamboos exterior, is unavoidable in making a precision crafted Pan Flute, you want the walls to be of intermediate thickness, from 2.5 mm at the top end to 3.5 mm. I also like making things. The n is the number of semitones between the note we want and the A4. We placed them on the tape in this order to better space them out equally, but it might be easier for younger kids to just put them on the tape from longest to shortest and not really worry about spacing. A fun musical instrument craft and science activity all in one! Read More. Im attempting to make long tubes made of wood similar to a pan flute. This is how we made our straw pan flutes, although you don't have to make them exactly as we did. Flute Acoustics | Flute Playing | We need to make the pan flute in tune and well constructed. Treat Injuries Immediately at the top end of the instrument - and a precisely adjusted wall thickness calibration from top to bottom. In addition to the pipe bore diameters being precisely calibrated, the pipe wall thicknesses should be as well, so that the outer diameter of the pipe above at its top rim should be ever so slightly narrower than that of its lower neighbor and so on up the scale, until you get to the very small pipes up at the top end of the instrument. If you have both at home, your kids could make a pan flute out of each. Make minor adjustments to your embouchure and the flute's positioning so that you achieve the sound you want. The external diameter of those pipes is 2 cm, maybe too wide (and bigger than the one I've realized). OK, maybe there's the need of some other explanations. Your instructable turned up in a search and after a read I realised it was what I've been chasing. Best of all, they're part of our 10-minute ESL/EFL craft for kids, which means that they're super cheap, super easy, and super fun to make. Again, the answer came from physics. Making this straw flute will teach kids about maths and measurements. on Step 10, Hi, I am doing a project for school where we need to make pan flutes. Mark with a pencil, then cut the straws to different lengths. Two tubes of equal length, but one closed at one end and the other completely open, produce the same note within two adjacent octaves. Take the 8-tubes and the 2-tubes pan flutes and lye the latter on the first (see first image), lowering the accidentals by 1-2 cm. The process of fitting the slats so that the pipes interface well with each other is one that can be done in either a quick and perfunctory fashion, or in a more precise fashion whatever level of painstaking precision, or relative lack thereof, you choose to select, there needs to be a relatively high level of consistency and uniformity in the slatting depths of the pipes from top to bottom. You shouldnt have one pair of interfacing slats be cut very deeply with the ones immediately above or below it being cut very shallowly, for example. The slatting depth between pipes, which is measured by the closest that the inner bores of adjacent pipes come to each other at their narrowest point, is merely one dimension of pipe slatting and fitting. The slats need to be angled inwards ever so slightly towards the players side so that the surfaces of adjoining slats fit together perfectly on the Pan Flute Mold. Also, when viewed from the tops to the bottoms of adjacent pipes, the pipes and their slats need to be fairly uniform in width from top to bottom. Twisting or skewing of the slats from top to bottom should also be eliminated. 3 years ago, 3 years ago Making these super easy pen pan flutes is perfect for any lesson about music or instruments. Hi, I seem to be having a problem with calculating the length. We need to arrange them in a practical way, so we start by taking all "white" tubes, e.g. You may not take images or content from this site without written permission. Finish by covering the lolly stick with ribbon or washi tape, to decorate. Take the thing you want to use to close the end and close the end. Check out my book. (You can also make noise blowing right into the straw. The general rule is: if the discarded part starts with a digit less than 5 then you left all unchanged; if it starts with a digit greater or equal than 5, then add 1 to the last digit of the remaining part). Fa = 12.5 cm Copyright @ by David Osborn. Press down firmly. If you don't know how to use a tube-cutter and you cannot figure out by yourself feel free to ask. This post is part of the 28 Days of STEM and STEAM Activities for Kids series. Step Two: Rough Cutting the Pipes I like really zillions of things, very different one another. You can use some glue to the yarn to fix it in place. 1 pair of scissors 1 ruler 1 roll of tape Engineering:Kids have the opportunity to build and design their own instrument. This time we know the frequency (if you don't then go to the second step). amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0"; Choosing a Beginner Pan Flute The pan flute is not particularly difficult to learn. After the initial rough cutting of the slats, they can be fitted together by placing them on a Pan Flute Mold, which is essential for both slat fitting as well as gluing or assembly. Since the proximal or players side edges of the pipes are the ones that interface directly with the player by touching his or her lips, it is here that the pipes must be most precisely and uniformly aligned. And so, a Pan Flute Mold provides the maker with a curved, convex surface upon which to lay the pipes for fitting and assembly, providing precision alignment for the players side edges of the pipe rims. Perhaps the simplest way of making a Pan Flute Mold is simply to take a wooden board, hammer two rows of nails into it about 1.5 feet (45 cm.) In the twelfth and final step of Pan Flute making, we get to the real finishing touches that are to be put on the instrument, to protect and beautify it. Before this step, the Pan Flute is perfectly playable in every way, so if playing an instrument that is not fully finished doesnt particularly matter to you, then go ahead and play your heart out. But these two final finishing processes, of oiling and painting the pipes, will not only beautify your instrument, but will also protect it and extend its life., Oiling the pipes usually comes first, and can be done periodically to protect the pipes from the moisture of the players breath, and subsequent tendencies for mold and rot to set in. Oiling is done as part of the final stage of Pan Flute making, and then subsequently as part of a cleaning or overhaul process. In this cleaning and overhaul process, the interiors or bores of the pipes are first cleaned of mold and mildew, as well as solidified residue or accretions from the players breath, with a long, thin dowel stick to which a strip of wet cloth has been attached. My teacher, Damian Luca, recommends using just ordinary water for this procedure, in contrast to others, who prefer a stronger cleaning solvent like wood alcohol, which he says tends to overly dry out and damage the bamboo. After the pipes are initially cleaned in this manner, they are then oiled. In the initial making of a Pan Flute, however, we may proceed directly to the oiling process without doing an initial cleaning., Many different types of oil can be used to oil the pipes of a Pan Flute. Zamfirs personal favorite is Almond oil; Damian Luca says that any vegetable oil from the supermarket will do. Oils that I have used include Castor oil, Grapeseed oil, Linseed oil and Olive oil. You can even get elaborate in making your own composite oil blend, or even in making a semi-solid bore wax that includes other protective materials like Myrrh or Propolis resin as well as Beeswax into the mix. The whole purpose of oiling is to protect the wood from moisture and rot. You can prop up the Pan Flute into an upright position, either by taping it to the wall or inserting its bottom end into a wide mouthed jar that has been weighted down with sand, gravel or coins, so that it sands upright in a stable position. Then, using a measuring cup with a beak on it, and maybe a funnel as well, pour the oil into each pipe, from the bottom pipe to the top, until the oil level rests right below the rim. Then, let the instrument sit overnight in this position, soaking up the oil. In the morning, pour the oil out and turn the Pan Flute upside down, rims downward, over several layers of newspaper to soak up the excess oil that slowly drains out over the next several hours. 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